Passion twists are one of the most visually striking and trendy protective styles of recent years. Their loose, bohemian texture combined with the structure of a rope twist creates a look that is both elegant and effortlessly stylish. If you have been wanting to try passion twists but are not sure where to start, this step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process from preparation to installation and maintenance.
What Are Passion Twists?
Passion twists are a protective hairstyle created by combining the rope twist technique with the use of water wave crochet hair, which gives the finished twist a beautiful, textured, and slightly frizzy appearance reminiscent of a natural afro-textured braid. The style was created by Miami-based hairstylist Kailyn Rogers in 2018 and quickly went viral across social media platforms due to its unique combination of bohemian texture and the sleekness of a traditional twist style.
What You Will Need
To install passion twists, you will need water wave crochet hair or spring twist hair in your desired length and color, a rat tail comb for clean sectioning, hair clips, edge control or gel, a spray bottle with water, and a light oil or leave-in conditioner. The amount of hair you need varies depending on the size and fullness you want, but most full-head installations require between five and eight packs of hair.
Step 1 — Prepare Your Natural Hair
Begin with clean, detangled, and moisturized natural hair. If your hair is freshly washed, allow it to dry or blow dry on a low heat setting until it is stretched and manageable. Apply a leave-in conditioner and a light oil to your hair before starting to ensure it is well-moisturized and protected during the installation.
Step 2 — Prepare the Extension Hair
Take out your water wave or spring twist hair and separate it into sections. For passion twists, you do not need to detangle the hair completely — the slightly tangled, textured nature of the water wave hair is what creates the distinctive finish. Tear or cut small sections of the extension hair, roughly the width of a pencil for medium-sized twists. Fluff each section slightly with your fingers to separate and loosen the strands.
Step 3 — Section Your Hair
Using your rat tail comb, section your hair into small, square parts. Starting from the back of the head, create a neat row of sections and clip the rest of the hair out of the way. The size of each section determines the thickness of each twist. Medium-sized parts — roughly one inch square — are the most common for passion twists.
Step 4 — Attach the Extension Hair
Take a small section of your prepared extension hair and fold it in half. Loop it around your natural hair at the root — the same method used for attaching knotless braid or crochet hair. You should now have two strands of extension hair attached to your natural hair section. Allow a small amount of your natural hair to blend in with the extension hair to create a seamless look at the root.
Step 5 — Begin Twisting
With your natural hair blended into the two strands of extension hair, begin twisting the two sections around each other in a consistent direction — most stylists twist clockwise. Unlike traditional rope twists, passion twists are done with a slightly looser tension to allow the textured nature of the water wave hair to show through. The goal is a defined but slightly fluffy twist, not a tightly compressed rope. Twist all the way down to the ends of the hair.
Step 6 — Seal the Ends
Because water wave hair does not seal with hot water the way kanekalon hair does, passion twists are typically finished by allowing the natural curl pattern of the extension hair to hold the end together. You can also apply a small dab of edge control or gel to the tip to keep it from unraveling. Some stylists prefer to leave the ends slightly loose for a more bohemian, free-flowing finish.
Step 7 — Style and Maintain
Once all twists are installed, you can leave them loose, pin them into a bun, or style them into a half-up, half-down look. To maintain your passion twists, moisturize your scalp every two to three days and protect them at night with a satin bonnet. Passion twists typically last between two and six weeks depending on your hair type and maintenance routine.
Final Thoughts
Passion twists are a stunning protective style that combines the best of structured rope twists and natural bohemian texture. With the right preparation and technique, they can be installed at home for a fraction of the salon cost. Whether you choose a classic black or experiment with color, passion twists are a versatile and beautiful option for anyone looking to protect their natural hair in style.