Format: Problem & Solution | Topic: Fixing an undefined twist out
The twist out is one of the most widely practiced natural hair styles and one of the most frequently imperfect results. When a twist out comes out frizzy, undefined, or shapeless rather than showcasing the beautiful wave pattern it should produce, the cause is almost always traceable to one of a small number of specific mistakes.
Problem 1: The Twists Were Unraveled Before They Were Fully Dry
This is by far the most common cause of a frizzy twist out. If the twists are taken down while still damp — even slightly damp — the wave pattern has not fully set and immediately relaxes into a frizzy, indistinct shape rather than holding definition. The moisture remaining in the partially dry strand causes the cuticle to swell and disrupt the set pattern.
The fix: Wait until the twists are completely dry — touch them at the root, which is the last section to dry, not just at the mid-length or ends. When in doubt, add another hour under the dryer or wait overnight. If you consistently have timing issues, install twists in the evening and take them down the following morning after a full overnight dry.
Problem 2: Too Little Product or Too Little Water During Installation
A twist out requires a specific balance of moisture and product to set properly. Too little of either means the hair dries with insufficient hold to maintain the wave pattern after the twist is released. Twists installed on nearly dry hair without adequate product rarely produce a defined unravel.
The fix: Install twists on damp to wet hair immediately after applying leave-in and a hold product such as a cream or gel. The hair should feel slippery and coated rather than dry and resistant when you begin twisting. If the product you are using provides insufficient hold, try adding a small amount of gel over your cream.
Problem 3: The Twists Were Too Large
Very large twists set a coarser, looser wave pattern that tends to frizz and fall more quickly than smaller twists. The larger the twist, the less defined and less long-lasting the resulting wave pattern from the unravel.
The fix: Reduce section size. Twists approximately the width of a pencil produce a more defined, more durable wave pattern than twists the width of a marker. More twists means more time to install but a noticeably better result.
Problem 4: Too Much Product Touched the Hair After Installation
Touching, pressing, smoothing, or adjusting the twists after they have been installed distributes product unevenly and disrupts the twist’s structure while it is setting. The more the installed twists are touched during drying, the less defined the unravel will be.
The fix: Install, check the entire head once to ensure even twist tension, and then stop touching. Do not adjust, smooth, or otherwise interact with the twists until they are completely dry and ready to unravel.
Problem 5: The Unraveling Technique Is Too Aggressive
Pulling twists apart rapidly and forcefully introduces frizz at the moment of unraveling, regardless of how well the set was executed. The act of unraveling should be slow, deliberate, and oil-assisted.
The fix: Apply a drop of oil to fingertips before unraveling each twist. Gently unfurl from the very bottom tip upward, holding the base of the twist steady while the bottom is released. Separate strands with just the fingertips — never nails, and never in a pulling motion. Work slowly and the definition that was set into the twist will remain intact through the unraveling process.