Format: How-to / Step-by-step | Topic: DIY keratin treatment
Professional keratin smoothing treatments can cost several hundred dollars at a salon and require several hours of chair time. At-home keratin treatment kits have improved significantly in recent years and can produce genuine smoothing and frizz-reduction results when applied correctly. This guide covers the process and the important safety considerations.
What a Keratin Treatment Does
A keratin smoothing treatment coats the hair shaft with a keratin protein formula that temporarily fills surface irregularities in the cuticle, reduces frizz, adds shine, and makes the hair more manageable. Unlike a relaxer, a keratin treatment does not permanently alter the hair’s curl or wave pattern — it loosens it temporarily for three to four months before the effect washes out. The treatment requires heat activation, which bonds the keratin to the hair shaft.
Safety Considerations
Many keratin treatment formulas — including some marketed as formaldehyde-free — contain formaldehyde-releasing chemicals such as methylene glycol that release formaldehyde gas when heated. Application in a poorly ventilated space can expose you to potentially harmful levels of this chemical. Always apply at-home keratin treatments in a well-ventilated space with windows open, or outdoors if possible. If the product has a strong chemical smell during heating, ventilation is insufficient.
Step 1 — Clarify Thoroughly
Apply a clarifying shampoo to dry hair and wash twice to remove all product buildup, silicones, and natural oils. The keratin formula bonds most effectively to a completely clean hair shaft. Allow the hair to dry completely before proceeding — some at-home treatments specify that application should be on dry hair rather than damp hair, and following the specific product’s instructions on this point matters.
Step 2 — Apply the Treatment in Sections
Divide the hair into four sections. Using the applicator brush or comb provided in the kit, apply the keratin formula to each section in thin, even layers, working from the bottom of the section upward and ensuring the formula coats every strand thoroughly. Avoid applying directly to the scalp. Comb through each section after application to distribute evenly. Allow the treatment to process for the time specified in the product instructions before blow drying.
Step 3 — Blow Dry and Flat Iron
Blow dry the hair completely on a medium heat setting before flat ironing. The flat ironing step is what activates and bonds the keratin to the hair shaft — it is not optional and determines the quality of the result. Flat iron every section slowly and thoroughly in thin subsections, typically at temperatures between 350 and 450 degrees depending on hair type. Most at-home treatments require multiple passes with the flat iron.
Step 4 — Post-Treatment Care
After the treatment, the most important rule is not to wash or wet the hair for the period specified in the instructions — typically 48 to 72 hours. During this period, the keratin is still curing, and water before this curing is complete washes the treatment out prematurely. Use a sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner going forward to extend the treatment’s life, as sulfates remove the keratin coating more rapidly than gentle cleansers.